I thought it would be fun to post one picture that captured a special moment for each day I was on the Camino. Considering that I took over 2,000 pictures it will be tough to pick just one but here goes.
I spent 2 days in Burgos recovering from Injury. Therefore another picture from Burgos is in order.
Street leading to the Cathedral
I thought it would be fun to post one picture that captured a special moment for each day I was on the Camino. Considering that I took over 2,000 pictures it will be tough to pick just one but here goes.
Statue of Spain’s National Hero El Cid in Burgos. This photo was taken during my rest day in the city.
I thought it would be fun to post one picture that captured a special moment for each day I was on the Camino. Considering that I took over 2,000 pictures it will be tough to pick just one but here goes.
Detail shot of the magnificent Arco de Santa María in Burgos at night. Burgos is a beautiful city!
Stage 15 – Castrojeriz to Frómista
Total Distance – 25.2 km
Adjusted for Climb – 26.4 km (accrued ascent 250 m = 1.2 km)
High Point: Alto de Mostelares at 900 m (2,952 feet)****
****Please note that this altitude, taken from my guidebook differs from the altitude given at the signpost atop of the Alto de Mostelares that is noted as 1050 m (3,444 feet). After climbing the Alto de Mostelares I agree, WHOLEHEARTEDLY, with the signpost!!!
CLICK ON THE PICTURES TO ENLARGE TO FULL-SIZE
As I stepped out of Embed Posada and into Castrojeriz’s Plaza Mayor I could feel the heat emanating from the ancient cobblestones. I did not know it at the time but I was to embark upon one of the most physically challenging stages of the Camino to date. My guide said,
“… be prepared for the strenuous climb out of Castrojeriz onto the Meseta”
YEAH – how does one prepare for that?
The “strenuous climb” was the Alto de Mostelares!!
I started out alone but quickly found a walking companion before leaving Castrojeriz!! His name was Salva and we forged an instant connection. He was a truly international person, born in Germany of a Spanish mother and an Italian father, Salva was a master carpenter who worked building luxury sailing ships. He also was a Camino veteran who had completed the Camino several times, even in the winter!!! Salva, speaking 4 languages of which his English was the weakest, spoke to me mainly in his very good Spanish. We shared bits and pieces about our lives, families, upbringing and the Camino as we walked side-by-side and soon we were at the bridge over the río Ordrilla and walking along a track that traversed an old Roman causeway. The Romans were active in this area because of their mica mining activity on the Alto de Mostelares.
The daunting Alto de Mostelares was soon in front of us physically barring our way to Santiago. What was a Peregrino to do? Climb it of course! At this point in my Camino I had lost the dread of steep hills or mountains. I knew I could climb them and survive but that didn’t mean I had to like them!!
Salva and I tackled the Alto de Mostelares side-by-side much like the two Peregrinos in the picture above. The Alto, a steep, flat-topped hill (the Spanish name for such a hill is a paramo) was certainly challenging. Cyclists could not climb it with their bikes and Salvo had to assist a young Brazilian woman with her bike up the Alto. It was a very chivalrous act on Salva’s part, no doubt rewarded by the company of a very beautiful young woman!! The fact that during the climb my heavy breathing went unabated will give you an idea of the taxing nature of the climb.
Salva and me happy to be at the top!
I made it the 1050 meters to the top!!
Peregrina from Miami, Florida also made it!
The scene at the top of the Alto was very celebratory. You had to stop to catch your breath and why not share the joy of having competing the climb with your fellow Peregrinos! I met a young Peregrino from Korea there and astonished him by greeting him in fluent Korean!! I don’t speak Korean but after a decade of working in the Koreatown area of Los Angeles I did learn to properly, with the correct accent, greet a person. It really helped make my meals in Korean restaurants very enjoyable! I was happy to greet Korean Peregrinos in this manner all over the Camino especially since they had to overcome some challenges (language, food, culture) that we Westerners did not. I wanted in some way to make them feel at home and welcomed. I hope that in some small way that I succeeded.
Sadly, not all Peregrinos have ever made it to the top as the following memorial to a Spanish Peregrino who died attempting the climb on the 25th of September, 2008 shows.
Manuel Perez Lopez, 1964 – 2008, RIP/DEP
This served as a reminder to Salva and me that this pilgrimage is not without its’ risks. Salva reminded me that there was another similar memorial at the start of the climb that I did not see. You see many such memorials, usually erected by the loving families of the Peregrinos, all over the Camino. It’s apart of the Camino as much as it is part of life. I think that if you are going to die someday, dying while walking the Camino is not such a bad way to go.
After a brief stop it was time to go down the alto and what a beautiful way down it was! Our next destination would be the Fuente del Piojo (Fountain of the Flea) rest area.
The way down with windmills at the extreme left of the picture and the village of Itero de la Vega in the distance on the right
Salva (you can see his shadow) taking a picture
We had to walk another 4.1 km before arriving at the Fuente del Piojo. For obvious reasons it was a popular place to stop and rest. The shade provided a welcome respite from the sun and many Peregrinos greeted each other and conversed with each other while resting their weary bodies. Salva and I followed their example and soon we met Maria who was from Colorado. She had decided quickly to do the Pilgrimage and one day she was back home and the next day she was on the Camino! I met many others that shared her experience. There was also a fruit vendor there who had drinks also and only asked for a donativo.
Peregrinos arriving at the Fuente del Piojo
Peregrinos arriving at the Fuente del Piojo
The Fuente del Piojo
The Fruit Vendor
About 1.5 km down the track from the Fuente del Piojo is the Ermita de San Nicolás. It is set in a lovely area close to the río Pisuerga. The trees that line the river are lovely and the more importantly they are the only bit of substantial shade one gets between there and the Canal de Castilla (close to another 10 KM away!). There are also very, very few water fountains between here and Frómista and one must take every opportunity to fill up with water. The Ermita (the former Hospice of San Nicolás, was run by the Benedictines of San Millán de la Cogolla) dates backs from the 12th Century and is now run as a albergue by the Italian Confraternita di San Jacopo di Compostela di Perguia. It is a primitive albergue that has no electricity or phone. It does have a toilet and shower. In addition, any drinking water must be obtained from the Fuente del Piojo. These features make for a tranquil respite illuminated by candlelight and the camaraderie of your fellow Peregrinos. Unfortunately, I did not experience a stay here but would definitely consider it next time.
Ermita de San Nicolas
Salva and I soon came upon the Puente de Itero de Castillo. The word “Itero” is a derivation of Hito meaning landmark or boundary stone. This 11th Century bridge (called Pons Fiterie in the Codex Calixtinus) crosses over the río Pisuerga and marks the border between the kingdoms of Castilla and León and the border of the present-day provinces of Burgos and Palencia. As you can tell from the pictures it has been extensively re-built.
Approaching the Puente de Itero de Castillo
Puente de Itero de Castillo
Border stone telling us that we are entering the Province of Palencia
It didn’t take us very long to reach out lunch-time destination Itero de la Vega (Pop. 190). We had lunch at a bar/albergue where we soon met Maria again. The three of us decided to have lunch together on the patio next to a boisterous and friendly group of Spanish cyclists.
Me, Salva and Maria having lunch in Itero de la Vega
It was at this point that Salva and I said goodbye to each other. I needed to get moving and he had decided to stay a while longer over lunch. We promised to meet up again in Frómista. I started walking in the rich wheat lands around Palencia that the Visigoths in the 5th Century called the Campi Gothorum (the Fields of the Goths). Although the Goths are gone, except for a few younger Peregrinos, the name stuck and this extensive agricultural land of rich soils, well-served by rivers and canals, is known as the Campos Góticos or the Tierra de Campos. Indeed, as I walked in the blistering heat I was reminded of the American Mid-West. I saw mainly wheat and vegetable crops with some wine production. The land was very, flat and lacking in shade. That lack of shade and fellow Peregrinos made me want to get to the next village Boadilla del Camino as soon as possible.
Walking alone in the heat I did encounter some Peregrinos. First, I ran into Patricia sitting by the side of the road and obviously in some discomfort from her ailing knee. A lone Spanish cyclist was there by here side, flirting (can’t blame him) and telling her that he could take her on his bike. I was doubtful since he had 40 kilos of equipment on his bike already!! We walked together the three of us for a little while before Patricia had to stop again. It was at this point that I left them together and continued walking knowing that Patricia would be taken cared of since the cyclist would not leave her side.
A short time later I ran into a young American couple in their early twenties. They were college students from Orange County in California and were track athletes. We soon walked into Boadilla del Camino (Pop. 140) and came upon an unexpected road block.
The Roadblock!
Boadilla del Camino is cited in some 10th century documents but it is thought to be older. The town plan is circular indicating the presence of medieval fortifications in the village’s past. It was at the point that we entered the village that the couple and I separated because I needed to rest and get something to drink while they decided to carry on. I stopped at the Albergue En El Camino and was very impressed by it. I just stayed long enough to rest a little and have a beer but the reports that I heard from fellow Peregrinos were very favorable.
Boadilla del Camino – Medieval jurisdictional column “Rollo” in the town square. It is decorated with scallop shell motifs.
Albergue En El Camino
Albergue En El Camino
Albergue En El Camino
Albergue En El Camino – Bar Area
As I sat in the shaded bar area of the Albergue En El Camino drinking a cold beer I was looking forward to getting to the Canal del Castiila. The canal was built in the 18th Century to provide transportation for crops and power for corn mills. It originally had a system of 50 lock gates (eclusas) and there are plans to restore all 50 of them. I was looking forward to the shade that would be provided along the canal and hopeful for some elusive cool breezes.
The American couple up ahead of me.
A little ways out of Boadilla del Camino I again saw the American couple. It seems that they too had stopped for a drink somewhere. They were soon way ahead of me and I was slowing down considerably because of the heat.
Canal de Castilla
Canal de Castilla
It seems that the heat had gotten the better of me and I decided to sit down in the shade along the canal to rest and the check my blood sugar level. This was the first and only time during my Camino that my blood sugar became dangerously low. I drank water and quickly popped a glucose tablet and waited for it to take effect. In the meantime who would happen to arrive and sit down next to me but Patricia and her cyclist!!! They were still together!! They very kindly asked if I was ok and I told them what had happened. We sat and talked for about 20 minutes when I started getting the itch to move on. They decided to rest some more and I walked on along the side of the canal until I reached Frómista.
Canal de Castilla
Canal de Castilla
Canal de Castilla
Lock at Fromista
Lock Gate at Fromista
At Frómista I was still concerned about my blood sugar level and decided to find a Supermarket to have an ice cream to pump the level up before finding the Casa Rural that I had booked for the evening. At the market I ran into Craig, the Irish Peregrino that I had walked out of Burgos with! He wasn’t the only one I found there but I’ll tell you about that in my next post.
Stage 13 – Burgos (Castilla y León) to Hornillos
Total Distance – 21.0 km
Adjusted for Climb – 21.7 km (accrued ascent 150m = 0.7 km)
High Point: Meseta above Fuente de Praotorre at 950m (3,117 feet)
CLICK ON THE PICTURES TO ENLARGE TO FULL-SIZE
Putting La Catedral de Santa Maria La Mayor behind us
Before saying anything else I must say that Burgos is a beautiful city that deserves your full attention. I wish that I could have spent more time there seeing all that this city offers. There is a wealth of art in Burgos and you will find a detailed listing in Glitz and Davidson’s, The Pilgrimage Road to Santiago: The Complete Cultural Guidebook. I remember while in Burgos thinking, “I must come back here one day with my wife.” One day I will.
Ceremonial Arch
As you will recall I had met an Irish Peregrino named Craig the previous day and we had decided to walk together. We met outside of the Cathedral at 7:00 a.m. which was the first time that I had ever started a walk that early! It just wasn’t my style because I enjoyed meeting locals while walking and I also enjoyed stopping in churches or other historical places and an early start took away many of those possibilities. Be that as it may we were off early and on our way.
Craig leading the way.
Korean Peregrino about to cross the Puente de Malatos (the Bridge of Maladies)
Real Monasterio de Las Huelgas.
After passing the Cathedral and the Church of San Nicolás we were soon walking along El Parral parque when I decided that we should take a small detour to visit the Real Monasterio de Las Huelgas. As an aside, “monasterio” is the Spanish word for a monastery but it is used for both male and female religious orders without distinction. The word could be used for a monasterio that housed monks or one that housed nuns. In this case in 1175 Alfonso VIII decided to convert the grounds of one of his rural palaces into a monastery named Las Huelgas (meaning the pleasures). It was intended to be the world’s most opulent refuge for widowed nobility. He ceded it to the Cistercians, with a significant catch, they were to report to the King only (hence the word Real). He made his queen, Eleanor (Leonor) Plantagenet (the daughter of the English King Henry II and the sister of Richard the Lion-Hearted) the first prioress. Significantly, she decreed that the 100 noble lady members installed there be called Señora instead of Sor (the title used for female members of religious orders). I was excited to see the Capilla de Santiago that has a statute of the saint with a moving arm and also the royal standard used in the battle of Las Navas de Tolosa but this was not to be because we were too early!! At least two hours before opening and this is why I normally started my walking at 9:00 a.m. or so!!
The Vaunted and Much Feared Meseta Central
After walking along the calle de los romeros, past a majestic statute of a Peregrino and through the Burgos University Campus we finally came upon the rural outskirts of Burgos. This was the beginning of the meseta central. Before leaving for Spain I had heard that it was table-top flat, straight, and that the heat would be unbearable. In my mind I had a picture of something like our southwest but alas that’s not what I found. What I did find were endless fields of crops and the first appearance of storks! The storks would soon be everywhere in the next 200 miles. The heat had yet to make an appearance as the rain had dominated the month of May and early June, so far.
Along the calle de los romeros
El Peregrino
It says, When the journey comes to its end the evening star will appear and the harmony of the twilight will open up before the portico of the King
We were soon clear of the Burgos and walking in the green countryside. As if on cue we began to see storks in the distance! These storks are usually found in pairs that mate for life and spend the winter in Africa before returning to their nests in Spain in mid-March. They are very family orientated and lay 2 to 5 eggs that hatch over the time period of a month. Most stork families return to Africa in August although a few intrepid ones may choose to winter in Spain.
My first Stork sighting taken from a long distance with a telephoto setting
We soon came upon the town of Tardajos (Pop. 700), the ancient Roman town of Augustóbriga- an important junction of the east-west Via Traiana and a north-south Roman road that connected the Roman towns of Clunia with Julióbriga (now called Retortillio and located on the Cantabrian coast). Tardajos was an important site in the reconquest of the Castilian Meseta in the 9th Century, being a part of a defensive perimeter against the Muslim south. Craig and I made it our first stop for breakfast with the truckers in the local cafe.
The entrance to the crossroads town of Tardajos. That’s Craig on the right. Notice also the map of Spain in the left and the 18th Century stone cross in the middle left of the photo.
A map of the Camino Francés in Tardajos – the only one of its kind that I saw on the route.
Storks nesting on a church steeple in Tardajos
Storks nesting on a church steeple in Tardajos
On the road to Rabé de las Calzadas (Pop. 190) we came up to Paulette, a friend of Craig’s from Canada.
Craig and Paulette (right)
This part of the medieval pilgrimage Road between Tardajos and Rabé de las Calzadas was known to be swampy and difficult to traverse. It inspired the following jingle:
De Tardajos a Rabé, From Tardajos to Rabé,
liberanos Domine. May God deliver us.
Y de Rabé a Tardajos, And from Rabé to Tardajos.
no te faltaran trabajos. you will not lack for troubles.
Rabé de las Calzadas
Rabé with the 13th Century Iglesia de Santa Mariña on the left.
Notice the scallop shell motif on the fountain
Another stork nest on the top of the Iglesia de Santa Mariña in Rabé
Beautiful square in Rabé
Craig at the Ermita de Nuestra Senora de Monasterio outside of Rabé de las Calzados
I too was to unexpectedly encounter a friend – Patricia, the young Peregrina from Allicante. She had been having trouble with her knee since before the town of Belorado and had to fall back because she could not keep up the pace. As I was walking close to the Fuente del Praotorre picnic spot I saw her walking up to the main trail. We were happy to see each other and walked for awhile until again she had to fall behind. During the time we walked we filled each other in on what we had experienced on the Camino. It’s normal, these types of reunions and separations and I really admired Patricia’s dedication even though she was injured. She told me that she had until September to complete the Camino and was doggedly determined to do so. This was an attitude that I would encounter everywhere on the Camino and indeed one that I shared.
Peregrinos on the Meseta
Patricia unexpectedly coming out of the Fuente de Praotorre!
After the Fuente de Praotorre we began our assault on the Cuesta de Matamulas (the Mule-Killer slope and the highpoint of the stage at 950m and called Cuesta de Matamulos on Spanish websites). Although it sounds ominious, we were in for a treat because we would also be seeing the famous piedras santas (sacred stones) as we overcame this last hurdle before our destination of Hornillos.
Patricia on the right heading toward the Cuesta Matamulas!
Las Piedras Santas
On the way down the Cuesta Matamulas with Craig on the right. Notice the village of Hornillos in the distance.
The rest of the stage that day was uneventful and we entered Hornillos (Pop. 100) at about 11:41 a.m.!! This was unprecedented for me and much much too early!! Craig even had to wait a half hour before the municpal albergue would open!! I would never arrive this early to a town again.
Crossing the río Hornazuela just outside of Hornillos
Craig about to enter Hornilos
CLICK ON ANY PICTURE TO ENLARGE IT
Along the riverbank
Plans Changed
My original plan had been to spend a rest day in Burgos and then take a bus to the monastery at Santo Domingo de Silos to hear the monks sing and see the beautiful monastery. Two things put an end to that. First, my Achilles tendon pain became so severe that I had to treat it and try to recuperate and secondly I found out that the monastery would be closed on the day I needed to go. That meant that if I wanted to visit it would add extra days to my not walking and I wasn’t willing to take so much time off.
A Farewell to Robert
My first morning in Burgos was a rainy one and a sad one because Robert was leaving for Barcelona and then home to Australia. We had walked together for 8 days and enjoyed many adventures together. I appreciated his companionship and the many, many, laughs and wonderful dinners that we enjoyed together. I have to admit that while we were saying goodbye to each other after having visited the Cathedral I was a bit teary eyed. Thank you Robert for a great time!
Taking Care of Myself
Round-the-clock treatment
I was getting very worried about my Achilles tendon pain as it just got worse every hour. After Robert had left I had two things that badly needed to get done. First was a haircut and the second was to get a massage and see if it could ease my pain. The haircut was a success and the massage slightly made me feel better. The masseuse did give me some valuable advice and that was to ice not only the tendon (as I had been doing) but also the muscle above the tendon. It was to prove good advice.
I immediately settled into a routine of icing my injury every hour and taking ibuprofen around the clock. The pain was too much to walk with and I needed to get the inflammation down and since it was raining the Saturday that Robert left and the next day, I had nothing better to do than to take care of myself. I’m grateful that the staff at the hotel was so kind and helpful. I must of used kilos upon kilos of ice!!!
Beautiful Burgos
Even in the rain I could see that Burgos was a beautiful city. This is especially true for the part of the city adjacent to the Cathedral. It has a medieval feel to it and many beautiful buildings and plazas. The Cathedral is the amongst the most beautiful that I have ever seen. The interior of the Cathedral is spectacular and the exterior is none too shabby! I was also very lucky that my hotel, Hotel AC Burgos, was a stone’s throw from the magnificent Puerta Santa Maria which led to the Cathedral.
The Paseo Espolón with the Puerta Santa Maria in the distance
Puerta Santa Maria
Along the río Arlanzón
Statute of El Cid
Street leading to the Cathedral
The Cathedral
The Cathedral at Night
Puerta Santa Maria at Night
Puerta Santa Maria at night
Two Unexpected Meetings
On Sunday I decided to go to a clinic or a hospital in Burgos to get my blister checked for a possible infection. I wasn’t sure whether it was or not but I had to be postive it wasn’t before I could continue walking the next day. I found out the address of the nearest hospital and walked there (about 3 or 4 KM) as a test for my Achilles tendon. It was a little sore when I got there but the pain was manageable and I thought with the rest of the day to recover it would be all-right for the following day’s hike. The doctor at the hospital checked my blister and said that it was not infected and healing very nicely.
While waiting to see the doctor I met an Irish Peregrino named Craig. He was there because his knee was giving him a lot of trouble. Since his Spanish was limited I translated for him and we shared a taxi back. We decided to have a cup of coffee later that afternoon and when we met we decided to walk together the next day.
While relaxing at the hotel bar and using the internet connection available there I heard a familiar voice at the table behind me. It was Dave and his wife Bobbi, the Americans whom I had last seen outside of Puente La Reina. Bobbi had been struggling with some bad blisters and I wasn’t sure they could continue. As we spoke their story came out. It started back home with the shoe salesman who said that the boots needed to fit tightly. WRONG!! They soon realized that they needed to do something drastic and right after arriving in Estella (the next destination after Puente La Reina) they purchased new boots that were a size larger. That did the trick and they were going to take a rest day in Burgos and move on. I was happy to see them get this far and wished them luck.
I guess that there are three morals to this story:
CLICK ON ANY PICTURE TO ENLARGE IT
Our arrival into Burgos was a wet and cold one and it continued that way all evening. It was our good fortune that I had reserved two rooms at the wonderful Hotel AC Burgos. Good fortune I say because the hotel had everything we needed and provided excellent service and took care of all my needs – which became many, but more on that in Part II.
We arrived in the late afternoon and that gave us plenty of time to rest up before the dinner reservations we had at Casa Ojeda, one of the best restaurants in town! I was in pain upon arrival from my Achilles tendon – it was giving me a throbbing pain – and I used the time before dinner to take a leisurely and luxurious bath and then ice down my tendon. Robert was finishing his Camino in Burgos and was going to take a train to Barcelona the next day. Before dinner he had gone to the train station to buy tickets for the train and we had arranged to meet at the restaurant.
I arrived early at Restaurante Casa Ojeda (http://restauranteojeda.com) and found it was much more than a restaurant!! It was in a large building with two floors. The first floor was a bar/restaurant set-up where delicious tapas (I know I went there for lunch the next day) were available. On the same floor, but separate, was a delicatessen with all sorts of foods and cakes. It’s upstairs at the classy sit down restaurant where the seriously excellent food is to be had. The food we had was to die for! I remember that Robert and I both ate one of the specialities of the house; Rib-eye steak with a foie gras that has a strawberry vinegar sauce for me and a baby roast lamb made in their wood burning oven for Robert. The dish that Robert had was so delicious that we saw a French Peregrina and her group having the same dish! We smiled across the table when we saw this. I had started my meal with a dish of wild mushrooms and Robert had their excellent jamón ibérico as a starter. The wine selection was not to be outdone by the food on the menu and the wine list was extensive. I remembered a Montecillo that I had twenty years ago and luckily there was a Montecillo Gran Reserva available!
Our wine that night!
Let me make a special mention of the service that evening. It was exceptional!!! I was feeling a bit self-conscious being in such a fine restaurant dressed as a Peregrino. I was dressed in the finest clothes that I had and they were clean but I still felt under-dressed (It’s the Native New Yorker in me!). That didn’t matter one bit to the Maitre d’ or to the staff. We were treated with utmost attention and kindness. I can’t thank them enough! It is no wonder that they have earned a 2013 Certificate of Excellence from Tripadvisor.com in addition to their stellar reviews on Yelp, Foursquare, Trivago.com and tripadvisor.es.
At the end of the meal I asked the Maitre d’ for a tour of the rest of the upstairs restaurant because they only had a section of it opened for their diners that evening. He took us on a grand tour showing us the kitchen (introducing us to the chefs) and the wine cave also! Man, was I in Heaven and from the look on Robert’s face so was he!!
A very rare and historic bottle of wine!!
Robert and I soaking up the atmosphere and wishing we owned these wines.
A rare 1936 Vega Sicilia, worth hundreds of dollars for its’ historical value
We had a smile on our face when we were walking back to our hotel and when we got there we were reluctant to end the evening, Robert’s last on the Camino, so we had a nightcap and enjoyed the conversation about our adventures. Robert took the picture below of me relaxing with a book of the food of the region published by Casa Ojeda.
Nightcap
It was a night in Burgos to remember!
michaelspilgrimage 